TROVA I TOUR PER CITTÀ
There is an old Persian saying
that goes, “Isfahan nesf-e jahan”, which means that Isfahan is half the world.
During my countless visit to this magnificent city in central Iran, I slowly
unravelled its layers to better grasp this rhyming proverb. I delved into the
palaces, mosques, bridges and gardens, and then I explored some more. After all
the hours spent uncovering the city, I could more or less narrate a rather
comprehensive – though not exhaustive – list of things to do in the city of
Isfahan.
Here we go:
1. Wander all the corners of Naqsh-e-Jahan Square
The intricate tiles that adorn the exterior of the Shah Mosque.
Meeting of sorts in front of the Sheikh Loftollah Mosque.
A massive public space in the
centre of Isfahan, Naqsh-e-Jahan Square, also known as Imam Square, is a fine
example of the architectural gems built during the Safavid empire. Tourists
congregate at this UNESCO World Heritage Site to see it with their own eyes before
zooming it to the attractions that flank each side of the square: Sheikh
Lotfollah Mosque, Ali Qapu Palace, Shah Mosque and the Qeysarie Gate, which is
the main portal to the bazaar of Isfahan. Take your time to visit each of these
attractions and devour the history behind them.
2. Take a breath and have a picnic in the square
Horse-drawn carriages making their rounds around the square.
Locals enjoying a picnic on the lawn.
Don’t rush in and out of
Naqsh-e-Jahan Square. Instead, slow things down and have a seat on the grassy
lawn where you’ll find locals having picnics with their friends or families.
You’ll hear the sounds of laughter and children playing, and the clear jingle
of the horse-drawn carriages that take tourists around the square.
3. Go shopping at the Grand Bazaar of Isfahan
The colours inside a carpet shop in the bazaar.
Walk the circumference of
Naqsh-e-Jahan Square through the bazaar and then from the Qeysarie Gate, disappear
into the labyrinth that is the Grand Bazaar of Isfahan. Underneath its arched
ceilings and domes you’ll find handicrafts, carpets, spices, clothes, and so
much more. This covered bazaar, which was originally constructed in the 11th
century, stretches all the way to Jameh Mosque.
4. Walk through time in Jameh Mosque
The courtyard of Jameh Mosque.
The honeycomb-like design of the curved ceiling.
During my visit to Jameh
Mosque, I had the sense of walking through time – and quite rightfully so, as
this mosque underwent gradual changes from the 8th century to the end of the
20th century. Given the nature of its construction, with additions and remodelling
throughout different dynasties, the mosque has varied styles in different
areas. The result is a unique concoction of Iranian architecture under one roof
– or rather, under four “iwans” (prayer halls).
5. Pop by Majlesi Tomb
Chador-clad women touching the tomb.
At the northwest of Jameh
Mosque is Majlesi Tomb, a mausoleum dedicated to Mohammad-Baqer Majlesi, a
renowned and influential Twelver Shi’a cleric during the Safavid Era. He is
most well-known for his compilation of an encyclopedia of Hadiths (records
detailing the life of the Islamic prophet Muhammad and the twelve Imams) that
amounts to 110 volumes. During my visit on a Friday afternoon, the mausoleum
was filled with chador-clad women, some sitting on the ground reading religious
texts and others surrounding the tomb to put their hands on it.
6. Feel like royalty in Chehel Sotoun Palace
The view from the pavilion of Chehel Sotoun Palace
A stone’s throw away from
Naqsh-e-Jahan Square is Chehel Sotoun Palace, which has been graced by royals
and dignitaries since the 1600s. Built by Shah Abbas II as a site for
entertainment and for receiving important guests, Chehel Sotoun Palace is
recognisable by its 20 slender wooden columns that support the entrance
pavilion. Its name which means “40 columns” is inspired by the number of
columns seen when the pavilion is reflected on the long pool in front of it.
7. Dangle your feet off Siosepol
The majestic Siosepol sitting atop the parched riverbed.
From Chehel Sotoun Palace, walk
south down Chahar Bagh e Abbasi Street and you’ll eventually reach Siosepol.
While the bridge spans the Zayandeh River, more often than not these days the
riverbed will be dry due to a combination of drought and water extraction. The
double-storey Siosepol has 33 arches which you can sit under and dangle your
feet. And when the river is dry, it’s safe to explore the lower level too.
8. Hear locals singing at Khaju Bridge
Khaju Bridge on a quiet afternoon.
Along the same stretch of river
lies Khaju Bridge, another fascinating structure that’s built during the reign
of Shah Abbas II. In the centre of the bridge, there’s a pavilion where the King
himself once sat to enjoy the views. Similar to Siosepol, this bridge has two
floors. If you’re lucky during your visit, you’ll chance across locals singing
or reciting poetry under the bridge, creating a magical atmosphere.
9. Dine at a traditional restaurant
Traditional Banquet Hall.
Turn a simple meal into a dining experience by opting for a traditional
restaurant. A stunning place you can pop by is the Traditional Banquet Hall,
conveniently located in a courtyard in Naqsh-e-Jahan Square. With stained glass
windows, colourful tiles and mirror-decorated ceilings, it’ll be a feast for
the eyes as it is for the tummy. A lesser-known option hidden in a quiet part
of town, in a historical house itself, is Houger Cafe.
Other beautiful restaurants you can try are Shahrzad Restaurant
as well as the restaurants in Toranj Complex, Abbasi Hotel and Malek Soltan
Jarchi Bashi. Do note, however, that prices in these touristy spots are rather
steep and you’ll be paying more for the ambience than for the food.
10. Try uniquely-Isfahani food like Beryani
The chefs in Haj Mahmood Beryani Restaurant.
The Beryani.
While you’re busy discovering
the basics of Iranian food such as Ghormeh Sabzi and Gheymeh, don’t forget to
actively seek out the foods that are unique to the city you’re in. Traditional foods in Isfahan run in the hundreds, but
most of them are homemade and hard for tourists to find. An easy choice,
however, is the Beryani, which is minced lamb wrapped in soft bread. You should
pair it with a glass of Doogh because salty watery yoghurt goes very well with
it. According to my local friends, the best place to have Beryani is Haj
Mahmood Beryani Restaurant, but you can also try Azam Beryani or Golestan
Beryani.
11. Go cafe-hopping
he intricate blue and gold ceiling is the star of the show in Bahar Narenj Cafe.
Hey, who’d have thought you can
go cafe-hopping in Iran? Isfahan’s cafe scene is budding and runs the gamut
from beautifully-decorated ones to those that simply serve really good tea and
cakes. My personal favourite is the cosy little Bahar Narenj Cafe, near the
Vank Church, which packs a punch when it comes to jaw-dropping interior. I also
love Roozegar Cafe for their traditional design. Another recommendation is
Radio Cafe for their yummy croissants and cheesecakes.
12. Sip tea in a teahouse
A rather overwhelming wonderland of random decorations in
Azadegan Teahouse.
There are cafes, and then there
are teahouses, also known as chaikhanehs. Iranians pretty much drink tea (or
chai) like it’s their national drink and while you can indulge in a piping hot
cup of chai in the many cafes around Isfahan, why not head to a traditional
Iranian teahouse instead? Azadegan Teahouse, centrally located in Naqsh-e-Jahan
Square, is a clutter of lamps, kettle, bells and knick-knacks that literally
hang above your head. You can typically have your chai together with “shekar”
which is the usual sugar, “ghand” which are sugar cubes, “nabat” which are rock
sugar candies, or different types of coin-shaped sweet confectionary to bite
before taking a sip.
13. View the sunset from the Fire Temple
The mud brick ruins on top of the hill.
Fancy a climb? West of the city
centre is the Fire Temple of Isfahan, locally known as “Atashgah”. This
archaeological site atop a hill was once a citadel and is believed to have
housed Zoroastrian fire temples. There is still a standing circular building
constructed with baked brick from which you can sit and take in the views.
History aside, this is a great place to catch the sunset. The climb itself,
while rather steep, is quite short and you’ll find yourself at the summit
within a matter of minutes.
14. Explore the Jolfa area
Walking around Jolfa
The Armenian quarter of Isfahan
is known as Jolfa and it is on the other side of the Zayandeh River from where
Naqsh-e-Jahan Square is. This area, which saw settlement in 1606 under the
directions of Shah Abbas I, offers a tiny glimpse into the diversity in Iran.
Walking around the neighbourhood will bring you to old Armenian churches, old
houses and quaint cafes.
15. Marvel at the Vank Church
No spot is left untouched in the Vank Church.
The Vank Church which sits at
the centre of the Jolfa area inspires a sense of wonder with its vivid frescoes
and murals depicting biblical stories. Though modest from the outside, it is
thoroughly breathtaking from the inside. Pictures and patterns cover every inch
of the church and your camera lens won’t be able to capture the grandeur of it…
unless if you have a 360-degree camera, that is.
16. Hike up Sofeh Mountain
Near the summit of Sofeh Mountain
Night or day, you can take a
hike up Sofeh Mountain which towers at a height of 590 metres above the ground
level. It takes roughly two hours to make it to the top and the route is paved
most of the way, safe for the sections further up. The park at the base of the
mountain is a popular leisure spot, so if you’re not up for a hike you can also
have a picnic or simply take a walk.
17. Join a cooking class
If you’ve fallen in love with Iranian
cuisine, what better souvenir to bring home than a recipe? Spend one evening
in Maryam Persian Cooking Class to whip up delicious dishes
like Fasenjun (walnut and pomegranate stew) and Gheymeh Bademjan (eggplant,
meat and yellow-split pea stew), and preparing the beloved Tahdig which is rice
with a pan-fried layer of potatoes and crust at the bottom. The best part: you
get to eat all of that for dinner! P.S. Maryam’s sister, Mahshad, runs the
homely Anar Guesthouse which is a great place to experience
Iranian hospitality.
18. Make an overnight trip to Varzaneh
There is no shortage of deserts
that travellers can visit in Iran, but if you’re short of time and looking for
one that’s conveniently located, Varzaneh is a prime option. It is a two-hour
drive from the city centre and has a parking area that doubles up as a camping
spot. Alternatively, you can also stay in a guesthouse in Varzaneh itself such
as Negaar
Traditional Guesthouse (my personal recommendation!) and join a
tour to visit the surrounding attractions such as the Varzaneh Salt Lake and
other historical sites.
BONUS: Visit other lesser-known attractions
If you’ve completed the list
and think you’ve run out of things to do in Isfahan, think again! I once
chanced upon a thick book detailing a hundred attractions in
Isfahan, complete with beautiful graphics. Too bad I can’t read Farsi. But
according to my local friends, these are some other places to check out:
Isfahan Music Museum, Angorestan Malek Historic House, Saeb Tomb, Avicenna
Tomb, Monar Jonban (Shaking Minarets), Najvan Park (and the Birds Garden,
Aquarium and Pigeon Tower nearby) and hey, even the Wall of Kindness where you
can make a donation.
See you in Isfahan!
After your visit, you’d have
walked the streets of the city that was twice the capital of
Persia. You’d have seen the magnificent structures developed by the Seljuk and
Safavid rulers. You’d also have experienced first-hand the modern day Isfahan
after the last of the Persian monarchy (the Pahlavi dynasty) and the subsequent
Iranian Revolution. Hopefully, you’ll come home with tons of stories to tell
and a whole bunch of souvenirs as well.